Why Essex Wines are Among the Best in the UK
England has over 500 vineyards, and over 55 are in Essex. Yes, you read that correctly. The much-maligned county, often swerved by tourists heading straight to neighbouring Suffolk, produces award-winning wines in bucolic vineyards that thrive in the milder eastern climate. The geology and latitude is similar to the Champagne region in France and sparkling wine is among the variety on offer, so maybe it’s time to consider this wine region characterised by mainly small, independent and family-run producers.
Standing in his trademark shorts and Caterpillar boots, Dale Symons, owner of Clayhill Vineyard in Althorne near Chelmsford, (picture, below) waxes lyrical about the heat-and-water-holding London clay that combined with the agreeable climate - “the most important factor in grape production” - create a ripe wine-growing environment. Visible through the glass-panelled balcony, to his right, the London skyline pushes up against the blue sky; to the left, the River Crouch snakes around the marshy Dengie peninsula. The ugly name belies the natural beauty, part wild and stark yet also home to acres of greenery - including neat rows of vines - gently sloping down to the water. Across the county into Kent, one of billionaire Mark Dixon’s vineyards is almost visible, a reminder of the southeastern region’s profitability, and that Clayill supplies wines to vineyards including Chapel Down, also in Kent.
He’s engaging as talks about the risk and patience in switching from arable to wine farming, which takes five patient years. On a hot sunny day, a glass of his chilled Sauvignon Blanc made with white bacchus grapes is the perfect way to toast his plans to plant 20 more acres next year. There’s a cafe open at weekends selling locally-baked homemade-style cakes and scones with tables set in full view of the soothing river view.
Barely a five-minute walk along the road, so a mini-vineyard crawl is an option, Crouch Ridge Vineyard (above) occupies 15 acres across this sweet spot just above the River Crouch planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. LJ the resident sommelier, with a personality is as agreeable as the wine, guides us through a tasting of three of their labels, which are all vegan including a pale, non-buttery 2021 Chardonnay and a sparkling blanc de blanc, that works well with the cheese, charcuterie and seafood boards diners devour. I learned the mind-blowing fact that the surplus grape juice is used to make gin, with added botanicals - juniper, coriander, myrrh and rooibos. I don’t even like gin but this is fresh and crisp with a light floral smell. If you want to make a short break of it, owners Ross and Samantha Longergan have converted barns on site into fuss-free apartments and a large exclusive-use house available as holiday lets, all with the mesmersising river vie
When it opened in 1969, New Hall Wine Estate (picture, top) was one of the UK’s first commercial wineries. Even non-wine drinkers can enjoy a visit to their attractive estate in a deeply pretty corner of Purleigh, a village just outside Chelmsford. Like many local wine producers, the Greenwood family originally grew vegetables until they learned that vines grew on the south-facing slopes adjacent to All Saints Church as far back as 1120. Inspired, they planted grape varieties including Reichensteiner, producing a small quantity of wine before switching to Bacchus, and now has one of the largest plantings of Bacchus in the UK. So established is the estate's reputation that Olly Smith includes their wines on the menu in his Glass House bars aboard P&O cruise ships. The estate continues to evolve and expand, with a growing team of energetic and creative experts, huge investment in new equipment and plans to plant a further 14 acres. Free trails around the vineyards are available during opening hours, which you can follow up with a tasting.
Greater Anglia operates regular services between London Liverpool Street and Burnham-on-Crouch (change trains at Wickford) or via the Greater Anglia app.
For more information on local vineyards, see Visit Essex