Local boys doing good

It’s back to their roots for the celebrated Galvin Brothers, Chris and Jeff, who have just opened their first Essex venture, the Galvin Green Man just outside Chelmsford. Transforming a 700-year old pub in a riverside meadow wasn't the original plan which was to seek a location in the Home Counties but after a chance sighting of the derelict building Essex won out. The brother's ambition extends to rolling out a chain of inns at a time when pubs are closing rather than opening - a brave but welcome mission already underway with Galvin Hop right next to their elegant Spitalfields restaurant Galvin La Chapelle.

Switching from their usual French fine dining Michelin-starred London restaurants, to local and seasonal quality pub fare such as pocket-friendly snacks, from £3.50 (or three for £10) including Nocellara olives in Essex rapeseed oil and grilled artichokes, lemon & almonds. Colchester crab and rock oysters feature on the menu, as does Dedham rump steak. So far, so local. And with mains from as low as £4 it’s nice to see they haven’t brought their London prices across the border.  Watch this space for a full review coming soon.

* Book online at: galvinrestaurants.com